Monday, 7:30 a.m.
I’m tired, probably feeling a wee bit of the after-effects
(not gonna call it a hangover) of drinking too much over the weekend (again.) I
surfed Saturday though. Still riding a bit of that stoke. I can still feel that
second-to-last wave that really got my juices flowing. I replay it in my head
over and over and over. I should have pulled a harder cut back though- screw my back.
I also should
have gone for that wave that looked like it had just a bit too much vert on the face. It didn't even close out! Don’t
be such a wuss next time!
I’m checking the forecasts for later in the week. Too early
to know for sure what it’s going to really be like.
Tuesday, 3:15 p.m.
Ahhhhhh it’s only
freaking Tuesday! I’ve spent way too much time on Surfline today. The stoke is pretty much worn off. Friday is looking good
I think. Why am I on Craigslist looking at surfboards again? I just bought yet
another board that will have to be hidden in my garage until who-knows-when.
Wednesday, 10:45 a.m.
Dammit, dammit dammit! Perfect conditions at the Cove!
Dammit! I could skip out of work early, make the 1.375 hour drive to the coast
and get a solid hour+ of surf in before it’s pitch black out. Dammit! Kid has
soccer practice tonight though! Dammit!
Thursday, 2:15 p.m.
Okay, Friday is
looking okay, and it’s my regular rotating Friday off. Cove looks good,
Shorties looks fair. Okay, on the road by 6:30, in the water by 8:15. But wait,
crap, surf-forecast.com is showing a short period swell now and wind out of the
north. What the hell?!? Swellinfo is showing all green and wind out of the
east. Mixed swell? Dammit! Should I make the drive? Dammit!! I hate these stupid forecast sites!
Friday, 4:45 a.m.
Too dark to see anything on the webcam at the Cove. No
matter. I bet everything is blown out. Wind switched onshore. I hate you all.
Friday , 6:30 a.m.
Okay- I can kinda see something on the webcam. Looks like
crap at the Cove but maybe Shorties is okay? My surf buddy is texting: “what do
you think?”
Friday, 6:35 a.m.
Forget it.
Friday, 8:15 a.m.
Surf buddy text: “Let’s go to P.C. It looks clean!” Too
late. Wife is awake and I’m put on lockdown for household assignments. Dammit!!
But wait… Saturday is looking good.
Saturday, 6:00 a.m.
Loading the truck, caffeine flowing, double-checking gear
(yeah I should go ahead and bring 3 leashes… you never know.) Do I pack the 8’4”
just in case? It’s supposed to be 5-7’ but the tide is high. No, because then I’ll
have to leave it in the back of the truck if I don’t use it. Okay- 7’3” speed
egg then. No, wait, maybe the 7’8”. Should I try the 6’4”? I’m getting too fat
to ride that thing anymore. Dammit! I need to roll.
Saturday, 6:04 a.m.
I’m on the road- I’ll be in the water by 7:45 at the latest.
Metallica!!
Saturday, 6:08 a.m.
Dammit!!! I left my booties in the garage!
Saturday, 6:10 a.m.
Okay- no worries, back on the road, cranking Queens of the
Stone Age! Yes!
I get ready to merge onto highway 217. Yeah gas station guy-
that is a surfboard sticking out the
back of my truck! Don’t be all jealous! In the water no later than 8:00!
Saturday, 7:45 a.m.
Well, the Cove looks decent. Yup, screw it. Not going
anywhere else. But damn, that wind is picking up a bit…
Saturday, 11:50 a.m.
I scramble over the rocks back to my truck. I need to have a
serious conversation with my wife about moving to the coast. I could
telecommute. I’m sure my boss would be cool with that. I wonder what time my
wife works tomorrow? I could leave super early and be back home by 10:00. Ooooohhhhh look! That house has a for
sale sign on it! I wonder if any new boards are on the shelf at Seaside surf? Maybe I’ll swing in and browse a bit.
Saturday, 1:15 p.m.
Text from wife: “Where R U!?”
Sunday, 12:30 a.m.
(Sipping a beer I don’t really need) I wonder what kind of jobs they have for Americans in Nicaragua?
